From the southOctober 8th, 2009
The promised swell has arrived and with it a howling southerly. There were some waves about this morning but it was hard work trying to get on them with such a strong offshore wind. A certain spot that will not be named was throwing some nice barrels if you were able to make the take off (most were not as lucky as the guy in the second photo…) The swell is set to peak in size this evening so find a protected corner out of the wind and you might find some decent waves….
enjoy your day,